The Jerk Changer is one of the many brainchild's of Blane Chocklett and just one of his many contributions to the fly tying and fly fishing industry. In 2009 I can remember meeting Blane Chocklett for the first time. I was invited to the International Fly Tying Symposium in Somerset, NJ. While taking a rare and much needed break to get up and stretch my legs I knew I did not have much time and I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the little time I had, go meet Blane! Up to this point in my life he was only someone I had heard/read about. Other than myself and a couple of friends, he was one of only a few people that were consistently catching Musky on a fly rod at the time. As a kid it took most of the courage I could muster up just to approach this legend of the tying/fishing industry. Fast forward thirty minutes later while walking back to my table and I could not believe what a nice, down to earth and humble person he was. Getting a chance to talk to him about fly design and musky flies back then was a game changer for me as I was just a couple years into my professional career as a fisherman and guide. Looking back and reflecting on that weekend in 2009 there were a couple things I never would have imagined (at the time). First and most importantly was the friendship I gained from that introduction. Blane is one of the most kind and genuine people I have ever met and I can call him a friend for life. I can not thank you enough for all your support and encouragement over the years. Secondly, was the positive impact and the amount of change he would have on our sport and all of the good he has done.
The Jerk Changer, like most of his patterns, is a platform. It can be adapted, tweaked, and manipulated to be used in a variety of different watersheds for a variety of different species. For that reason, it is one of my all time favorite flies. Big or small, natural or synthetic, it doesn't matter which, just tie some and go fishing and I am confident you will enjoy this pattern as much as I do!
Step 1: Start by inserting a 10mm Next Gen Shank into the vise and lay down a foundation of thread from the eye all the way to the back. Cut a small bunch of UV Polar Chenille - Gold and tie in so it extends behind the shank. Try to keep this material as close to its full length as possible. This part of the fly serves two purposes. One is to add inner flash to the tail. Second is to provide some rigidity under our tail feathers, this will help keep the feathers flat but also keep them straight and prevent them from twisting during the tying and fishing process.
Step 2: Select two or three small and narrow hen feathers from the top of the saddle and tie them in on each side of the shank with the concave side of the feathers facing inward toward each other.
Step 3: Select a piece of Chocklett's Finesse Chenille- Medium, strip away some of the fibers exposing the core, tie in and make two or three open spiral wraps and tie off, leaving approximately one eye width of room.
Step 4: Select two more hen saddles similar in size to your tail feathers, tie in by the tip and palmer them forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a little Z-Ment for durability.
Step 5: Before removing this shank, attach the next 10mm shank. Once attached insert into the vise. Be sure to wrap your base of thread as far back up the shank as you can. This will help build a finished fly with minimal gaps and spacing between sections.
Step 6: Just as before tie in the Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap forward leaving just enough room to palmer two hen saddles. Keep in mind that the hen feathers you select for this next section are a little longer and a little wider. This will help build shape and size to the finished fly. Tie in feathers wrap forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a dollop of Z-Ment.
Step 7: Insert Ahrex SA280 #6 hook into the vise and begin to tie down the articulation wire. Secure the wire to just down into the bend of the hook. Slide on the previous shank and tie down second strand of the wire. I take the wire and secure it up to the eye of the hook. There is no need to double back the wire for security as there will never be any amount of pressure hanging or pulling from it.
Step 8: Tie in your Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap tight touching wraps all the way to just between the point of the hook and the barb and tie off. Select two more feathers, again slightly wider and larger. Tie in and palmer forward and tie off. At this point you should be about halfway up the hook shank.
Step 9: Repeat the previous step one more time. Adding a second station of prop material and palmered hen saddles. If done properly this will take you all the way to the eye of the hook. Tie off and secure with Z-Ment.
Step 10: Attach the 35mm Shank to the hook and insert into the vise. As before you will want to start your thread at the eye of the shank and lay a good foundation all the way and as far back as is possible. Again, this will minimize the gaps in the finished product giving you a cleaner looking fly.
Step 11: Same as before you will attach the Finesse Chenille (this time using the Large Finesse Chenille) to the shank and wrap tight touching wraps approximately a quarter of the way up the shank. Once tied off you will want to give a slight trim to the Chenille so that it is not quite at full length. Palmer a couple more hen saddles, tie off, and secure with a dollop of Z-Ment.
Step 12: Repeat the previous step. Only thing that will be done differently is you will want to leave the Finesse Chenille- Large at full length. At this point, this should be the second station of prop/veil on the front shank.
Step 13: This third and final station will vary a little as we are switching over to Chocklett's Filler Flash for the prop on this station. By switching over to the Filler Flash we are able to add a little more height and rigidity to our final prop. It also allows me to sneak in a little more flash than you can achieve with the Finesse Chenille or a brush. Once the prop has been tied in and secured you will want to veil it with 3 Hen Saddles that are quite a bit longer, wider, and webbier. This will help bring density to the front of the fly. Tie of and secure with Z-Ment.
Step 14: At this point you should be about 75% of the way up the shank. Next we will tie in pectoral fins. I often say this step is optional but as I look back and reflect on any baitfish changer I have ever tied, I always include pec fins (unless accidentally forgotten about haha). Traditionally pec fins are made of hackle/saddle tips and if you want to use that feel free, this is Merica' after all. I got a little bored with that and decided to use the tips of a Montana Fly Company barred mini marabou feather instead.
Step 15: Once the pec fins are tied in, you will finish the fly off with any brush you see fit. I really like the Streamer Brush from Renzetti. Tie in and wrap in dense side by side wraps all the way to the front and tie off and secure with Z-Ment. Be sure to clean the brush head up with scissors to bring a little shape and old fashion good looks to the front of the fly.
Whether floating in a boat or wading, using a sinking, intermediate, or floating line, this fly can be used and adapted to all sorts of different conditions and fisheries. It is a quick and easy tie, by Changer standards and very fun to watch come through the water! Tie a few up for your local water and let us know what you think. If you post a picture on social media be sure to tag us and we will share it on our page.
Watch the full video here:
