Friday Flies: Leggy Boi

"Leggy Boi" 

Big shout out and thank you to Mike Schultz and the crew at Schultz Outfitters for developing this pattern and continually pushing the boundaries of warmwater fishing and the patterns we use. 

The Leggy Boi can be tied in a limitless amount of color variations and color combos. Try not to get caught in the generic white colorway. Often times the more adventurous you get with different color combos, the more fun the outcome. With nearly endless colors available in feathers, brushes, props, and rubber legs, you are only limited by your imagination. 

Mike has a great video tutorial on his YouTube channel for this fly (as well as countless others that I highly recommend watching). It is full of great tips and tricks as it pertains to both how he ties and fishes this incredible fly. 

Below is our step-by-step on how to tie the Leggy Boi. The full list of materials can be found below.

1. Select one or two marabou plumes and tie off the back. Try to keep the length generous as you want this fly to move and swim as much as possible.

2. Take one full strand of legs and fold around thread creating a pair and tie in on either side of hook. Repeat on other side of hook.

3. Select two hen saddles near the top of the saddle where you will find the smaller feathers. Tie the feathers in and wrap up the remainder of the shank as you would on a Feather Changer (see Feather Changer tutorial video here) and tie off.

4. Insert second 15mm shank into your vise and tie in the prop material. Here we happen to be using the 1" Translucy Brush trimmed down slightly. Wrap the brush forward until you are a little past half way on the shank and tie off.

5. At this stage we will select two full length strands of rubber legs. Fold in half as we did previously and tie down. Repeat this step on the far side of the fly as well. 

6. Finish the remaining shank by selecting two more hen saddles and wrap forward to the eye. This time you want to make sure you grab feathers that are a little bigger than the previous pair as to begin building shape and taper to the fly.

7. Insert hook and attach the two shanks, either with a shank or by using articulation wire. 

8. Repeat the same steps as we did on the previous section. Tie in 1" Translucy Brush, wrap forward a little beyond half way and tie off. Trim down a little so that the prop is not at full length but bigger than the previous shank. After this tie in two legs folded in half on both the near and far side of the hook. 

9. Once the legs are tied in, you will select two more hen saddles, slightly larger than before. Tie in and wrap forward covering the remainder of the shank.

10. After the first hook is completed you will insert the 25mm shank into the vise and repeat the steps exactly as we did in previous sections. Only difference here is you will be building two stations on this shank instead of one. The prop on the first station will be the 1" Translucy Brush but left at full length. The second station you will switch to the 2" Translucy Brush but trimmed down to be a little longer than the previous station.

11. Insert the Ahrex SA280 hook and before attaching the previous section, slide the Slotted Tungsten Bead up onto the hook then proceed to attach the previous section. 

12. As we did on previous shanks, attach the 2" Translucy Brush and wrap 3/4 of the way up to the bead and tie off. Select three large hen saddles. If you do not have anything wide or big enough for the task, feel free to use bigger schlappen feathers as a substitute here. After this step you can go right to the EP Crustaceous Brush or add an accent color first, totally up to you.

13. Tie in the EP Crustaceous Brush and wrap forward all the way up to the eye of the hook. The amount of wraps and density is completely up to you and what you want out of the fly. Comb fibers out as much as possible. Begin to trim down and shape the head to your likening.  

Have any questions on tying this fly? Give us a call at 614-451-0363!

Sandwich Cricket: Fly Tying Tutorial

We brought in Jerry Darkes on the YouTube Channel to give you a brief tutorial on how to tie the Sandwich Cricket.



Sandwich Beetle by Jerry Darkes

Materials • Hook: TMC 5212 size #10
• Thread: UTC 70D, black
• Underbody: Dry fly dubbing in black
• Foam: 2mm foam sheeting, black with a brighter color such as orange or yellow. Glue together as a single sheet using a spray adhesive. Cut into strips between 1/8”–¼” (4mm-5mm) wide.
• Legs: Montana Fly Company Barred Sexi Floss- medium size, in olive, tan, or brown.

Tying Steps
1. Start the thread and lay a thread base on the hook shank. Take the thread to the bend of the hook.
2. Lay a length previously prepared foam strip over the top of the hook with the back end extending slightly past the bend of the hook.
3. Make few wraps over the foam, then gradually increase pressure while making more wraps to hook the foam on top of the shank. Be sure to keep the foam strip on top of the shank.
4. Finger dub several inches of body dubbing on to the thread.
5. Dubbing completed.
6. Lift up the foam and start wrapping the body.
7. Wrap the body to just behind the eye of the hook, then pull down the foam strip and secure to the top of the hook with additional thread wraps.
8. Trim off the foam sticking out to the front leaving a short length extending past the hook eye.
9. Completed body.
10. Cut a 2” length of the medium Barred Sexi Floss. Double that over and cut to a 1” length. Tie this in the middle on one side of the body.
11. Tie in the other 1” Barred Sexi Floss on the other side of the body.
12. Trim each side to 4 or 5 barred sections in length.
13. Take the thread to the front of the body, tie off and cut the thread. Restart the thread where the back part of the foam is tied down.
14. Repeat the same procedure for prepping and tying in the rear legs as in front. Tie in one side. 15. Then tie in the opposite side.
16. Trim the legs to length then whip finish and cut the thread.
17. Put a touch of glue at each point where the legs are tied down.
18. The finished Sandwich Cricket. The bright foam on the top allows the fly to be easily seen on the water.

Check out this video from Brian Flechsig last year on using beetles and crickets for trout!

Keep Sharp, The Cornerstone to a Successful Day on the Water

Fly fishing anglers will often hear fly fishing pundits emphasize the importance of their rod, reel, or even their fishing attire. Yet, Brian Flechsig of Mad River Outfitters and the Midwest Fly-Fishing Schools brings our attention back to two pivotal elements - the fly and the leader. These are arguably the most crucial pieces of a fly fishing setup. In his words, "Nothing matters if your fly sucks." Brian stresses that even if you have the right fly, if your leader can't present it naturally, it's still ineffective.

The heart of Brian’s argument is the significance of a sharp hook. The hook is where the angler meets the fish, the ultimate point of contact. If it doesn't penetrate the fish's jaw properly, all else is rendered moot. 

Many overlook the necessity of maintaining sharp hooks. Conventional anglers regularly sharpen their hooks, but fly anglers seem to neglect this essential practice. Some even opt to just cut back their tippet to switch out flies. With fewer hooks on their line than conventional anglers, fly fishers should be even more diligent about their hook's sharpness.



To help anglers maintain their hooks, we recommend the Dr. Slick Diamond Hook Hone. These tools come with different grit levels for refining the sharpness of the hook, making the sharpening process straightforward and efficient. Brian provides a detailed demonstration on how to use these sharpeners, emphasizing filing away from the hook point for best results. The "thumbnail test," a method taught to him by his grandfather, is a simple way to check the hook's sharpness. If it grabs onto your thumbnail, it's sharp enough.

In conclusion, while many factors contribute to a successful fly-fishing experience, the sharpness of the hook can make or break your day on the water. No matter the quality of your other equipment, a dull hook can thwart your chances of catching fish. As Brian aptly puts it, "Your hook is your point of contact." Keeping it sharp ensures that when the moment comes, you're fully prepared.

Fly Tying- The Hollow Fly- "Sexy Shad"

 

Hollow Fly- "Sexy Shad"

Most who know me can attest to my obsession and addiction to Hollow Tying and Hollow Flies. The way a properly constructed hollow moves through the water is nothing less than seductive.  There is so much movement and life in the fly whether at rest or swimming through the water. We as fly tyers and fishermen owe a great debt of gratitude to Bob Popovics whose fertile mind spawned this and many other techniques that have changed the way most us approach fly tying. If you look at any Musky, Pike or Smallmouth fly created over the last decade chances are you will see Bob’s influence peeking through somewhere.
 
For those who are not familiar with hollow flies hopefully will walk away from this tutorial with a more open mind and will see the endless opportunities this technique can be used for regardless of what species you target. Hollow tying is also not limited by just using bucktail, it can be executed with countless other materials whether it be natural or synthetic.     

Pat Kelly - December 2017 


 
“The Sexy Shad” Hollow Fly- Recipe

Hook: Partridge Predator 2/0- Click Here
Thread: UTC 140- White- Click Here
Tail: White Bucktail- Click Here
Tail Flash Material: Lateral Scale- Click Here
Hollow Ties #1-3: White Bucktail- Click Here
Body Flash Material: EP Sparkle Holographic Silver- Click Here
Chocklett’s Body Tubing: ¼” Clear- Click Here
Hollow Tie #4: Fl. Yellow Bucktail- Click Here
Hollow Tie #5: Fl. Blue Bucktail- Click Here
Eyes: Pro Sport Fisher Tab Eye- 10mm or Pro Sport Fisher Pro Jungle Cock Large- Blue or Red- Click Here
(We'll add the PSF Tab Eyes here  once they are on the website)
Cement: Brushable Zap-A-Gap- Click Here

 
1. Secure hook in the vise. Lay a foundation of thread from the hook eye all the way back to just beyond the barb, then advance thread to just in front of the barb as this will be our initial tie in point.

2. Tie in your first bundle of white bucktail. This tail section should be approximately 3-4 times the length of your hook shank. After the hair has been cut off the hide hold the tips between your thumb and forefinger and preen out the shortest fibers and discard them. Once complete lay bucktail on top of half of the hook shank and secure with 3-4 locking wraps. *Be aware of how much hair isn’t used in the tail. Less is more anytime you are tying hollow fleye’s. If you think you have the right amount use half of that! 

 

 

3. Select a liberal amount of Lateral Scale and tie it in reverse so that the longest fibers are facing forward to the eye of the hook. 

Once secure fold the flash back on top of itself and distribute 180 degrees around the bucktail and finish with 3-4 locking wraps. Apply brushable Zap-A-Gap to thread wraps. When finished I like to cut my flash so that it extends about a ½” beyond the tail. 

 
4. At this point we are ready for our first hollow tie. Select a bundle of hair that is a little less than was used in the tail. Before tying in be sure to preen out the shortest fibers like we did with previous step. Take the time to measure this bundle of hair against the previous one before tying in. You want this section to be about 75% the length of the tail. Now with your material hand lay your bucktail in reverse on top of the hook and trap with three loose thread wraps. Before securing the hair you want to take your thumb and forefinger and distribute the hair evenly 360 degrees around the hook. 

Once the bucktail is evenly distributed pull tight on the thread locking the bucktail in place. 

Once secured you will want to pull the fibers backwards toward the rear of the fly and advance your thread in front of the bucktail and begin building your thread dam.


 

 

5. Continue building up your thread dam until you have achieved a fairly flat angle to your hair. That larger your thread dam the flatter the hair will want to lay. At this point in we do not need much height as we are still building the rear portion of the fly.

 

6. At this point in the pattern I like to add some flash to the body. My preferred material is EP Sparkle because it has good length, is very light and blends well into the bucktail. Take a generous clump and center tie it on top of the hook shank. Fold back over itself and distribute evenly around the fly. Finish off by applying a little brushable Zap to lock everything in place.
 

 

7. Now at this stage of the fly we will begin to build up the profile by starting to form the back and shoulders of the fly. Repeat the same process as we did in the last step. Only difference being in the angle of your bucktail. Make your thread dam a little smaller so that the bucktail wing sits up a little taller as seen in the picture above.
 

8. After this stage is complete I like to incorporate Chocklett’s Body Tubing so that the fly will push more water causing a much more dramatic side to side swimming motion. This stage is optional. I recommend tying this pattern both with and without this addition as the action is very different in each variation.
 

9.    From this point on we will be tying in two more hollow ties. First one being with Fl. Yellow Bucktail and the last one with Fl. Blue Bucktail. At this point you have a finished product.  

 

10. Once you are finished with the last two hollow ties you have the option of adding eyes. I prefer to use either Pro Sport Fisher Pro Jungle Cock Eyes in Large or the Pro Sport Fisher 3D Tab Eyes, which is what you see on the photo above. This is a new product and will be available for purchase in the store soon.  After you are finished tying in your eyes whip finish and add a coat of brushable Zap-A-Gap and let dry. I typically will run the fly under some hot water for about thirty seconds then hang upright in my vise to dry. This will tame all the stray hairs and allow the fly to take on that beautiful fusiform shape and taper.


I generally fish this fly on a 6-8wt rod with some sort of an intermediate or sinking tip fly line with a 3-6ft leader. Due to the buoyant properties of bucktail fishing this fly on a floating line just doesn’t do it justice. Now with the solstice behind us we are gaining daylight everyday and Smallmouth season will be here before you know it! Once water temps consistently hit the 45 degree mark fish will start taking flies regularly. Early season fishing will generally produce the biggest fish of the year so fill your box with some Hollow Fleye’s and be ready…won’t be long!       


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Ed. Note:

For those un-familiar, Pat Kelly strongly feels that these two books are two of the most influential of all-time in world of baitfish fly tying. He's a Bob Popovics "groupie".

Click Here to check out "Pop Fleyes"

Click Here to check out "Fleye Design"



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Friday Flies: Wooly Worm by Ryan Ratliff

 

The Wooly Worm is a staple in my fly box for many different species.  Basically, it is a Wooly Bugger with a yarn tail. This fly is simple and productive!  In the right colors this fly can replicate anything from mulberries to fish eggs, to Zooplankton clusters.  Although it catches many species, Bluegills are my favorite fish by far.  Any panfish for that matter seldom let you down by turning up their nose to an improperly presented fly.  You can either match specific food like Dragon Fly nymphs or use this as an attractor in fluorescent colors.

The Wooly Worm can be fished in many different water columns.  Fish it near the surface by not adding weight and using a light wire hook or add a few wraps of lead wire to fish it deeper.  In this tutorial, we picked a slightly heavier hook to help the fly sink slowly.  Often I find that our flies will sink too fast out of the strike zone or will snag/grab debris on the bottom of lakes. When fishing lakes, a fly that sinks slowly will often out produce all other patterns. Being able to see the fly and how the fish reacts to the retrieve will teach you a lot about their behavior and what the fish like.  

It is early Spring right now and the water temps are fluctuating from the cool night temps.  A key for finding big Bluegills in the Spring is to fish drop-offs close to shallow flats.  These locations will hold fish most of the year, but in the transition seasons this is the place to be.  I like to make a long cast out over deep water, let the fly sink just out of sight and then begin slowly stripping it back.  With a floating line, the fly will slowly rise in the water column with every strip. I will try to keep the fly in view if the water clarity allows.  As you continue to strip in the fly vary your speed and pause length to keep the fly off of the bottom as not to collect debris.  Watch for the fish to actually take the fly or the end of the floating line to twitch and pull.  A small strip set is needed and you are in for a battle.  Do not be surprised if a large Bass, Catfish, Carp or anything else in the lake is on the other end!

Step 1: Place hook in vise. Start thread one hook eye length back from the eye and wrap back to the hook barb.

Step 2: Cut a short piece of Sparkle Yarn. Starting one hook eye length back from the eye carefully tie the yarn down on the hook shank.  Make sure that you create an even base with thread.  

Step 3: Cut a short length of 4x tippet (approx. five inches).  Tie it down with crossing wraps over top of the yarn and the length hanging out over the tail/back of the hook.

Step 4: Place the tippet in the material keeper back out of way. 

Step 5: Lash down Chenille evenly just like with the yarn using even thread wraps.  Place the chenille out of the way in the material keeper.

Step 6: Select a properly sized grizzly hackle and strip off fibers from the left-hand side.  Tie in the feather about an inch down from the tip.  Make sure that the fibers are facing you when you tie the hackle down.

Step 7: Advance your thread toward the eye of the hook, place a half hitch in your thread, and then place it over your bobbin holder.

Step 8: Wrap your Chenille forward evenly using the rotary feature of your vise. Tie off the Chenille making sure not to crowd the eye of the hook. Trim off the Chenille.

Step 9: Place another half hitch in your thread and place back on the bobbin cradle.  Carefully wrap your hackle forward with spaced out “candy cane” wraps.  Make sure to add an extra turn of hackle right at the head before tying off and trimming the feather.

Step 10: Place a half hitch in the thread again and place on the bobbin holder.

Step 11: Firmly grab the tippet out of the material holder.

Step 12: Wrap the tippet counter wrap style (the opposite direction as the hackle) over the hackle making sure not to trap the hackle fibers down.

Step 13: Tie off the tippet and whip finish your thread at the eye. Create a slightly larger thread head. In this pattern, a larger thread head is an expectation. This thread head is used as a hot spot.

Step 14: Trim the tail to a length just shorter than the hook shank.  Add some UV resin to the thread head and your done.  

Recipe
Hook: Tiemco 3769 Fly Hooks
Thread: 6/0 Veevus
Tippet (4x)
Aunt Lydia's Sparkle Yarn (Orange)
Chenille-Medium (Tan)