Friday Flies: The Default #1 by Paul Johnson

The Default #1
Written and tied by Paul Johnson

The Default #1 has become a staple in my Rainbow Trout/Steelhead box. I came up with this pattern because I wanted a fly that would be easy and quick to tie, making it easier to load a lot of patterns into my box. 

This fly showcases a big factor when targeting Rainbows/Steelhead... flash. The vinyl rib adds a bit of texture to the fly. I chose clear so the holographic tinsel shines right through making it an eye catcher for any fish that sees it. Holographic tinsel provide the tyer with a lot of different possible color combinations. This fly can be tied from bright colors to more earth tone colors depending on where you’re fishing. In addition, the TMC 2457 hooks are strong which is why this fly can handle the Steelhead we are targeting in the Great Lakes Region.

So, if you’re looking for a pattern to add into your box make sure this is one of them! 

Step 1: Put the bead onto the hook and secure it in your vise.

Step 2: Put a layer of thread down behind the bead making sure to wrap down to the back end of the barb.

Step 3: Tie in a 3” piece of Vinyl Rib starting from behind the bead making wraps back. Make sure to only go back the same distance with thread wraps as you did in the previous step so everything is even.

Step 4: Tie in a piece of the Holographic Tinsel the same length as the vinyl rib. After tying the tinsel in work your thread wraps up the hook to just behind the bead.

Step 5: Grab the Holographic Tinsel wrapping it up the hook until you get to where your thread is. Make sure your forward wraps are overlapping each other. Lock down the tinsel with two thread wraps. 

Step 6: Repeat step 6 with the Vinyl Rib.

Step 7: Twist the ice dub onto the thread then make wraps until you form a small dubbing ball behind the bead.

Step 8: Pull apart and re-stack a small amount of Laser Dub until you have a sparse piece about an inch wide.

Step 9: Center tie the Laser Dub so that half the material is hanging out in front of the hook and lock in with two thread wraps right behind the bead then pull the front most portion of the laser dub down below the bead while moving your thread in front of it. Lay down two to four strong thread wraps to lock it all in place.

Step 10: Trim the laser dub so there is a small amount past the bend of the book.

Step 11: Whip finish and go fish!

Recipe:
Thread: Veevus 12/0 Fluorescent Orange
Hook: TMC 2457 #14
Cyclops Beads 7/64 White
Ice Dub in Caddis Green
Senyo's Laser Dub in White
Midge Vinyl Rib in Clear
Holographic Tinsel Medium in Fuchsia

Friday Flies: Simple Tube Fly by Ryan Ratliff

Maybe it is because I am getting older, maybe it's because I prefer simplicity, or maybe it is because I like to be different...whatever the reason, I really love swinging a fly.  It might not be the best technique for every situation but I try to swing as much as possible. Lately when late Summer rolls around there have been few fishing situations that come up. Low clear water means crawfish and small streamers. From Smallmouth to Carp to Buffalo to Rock Bass a small pattern slowly crawled/swung along the bottom will bring success. Sight fishing to spooky fish in low clear water is a challenge though. Swinging allows for a stealthy approach at a distance and is easy to detect strikes.  This technique does not require a tube fly, but the versatility of changing hook styles is a huge benefit. 

The end of Summer also brings thoughts of Fall steelhead and trout fishing. Water levels have also been very low and clear into the Fall on the cold water streams. Brown Trout are looking to move towards spawning areas and small sculpin and crawfish are a threat to a Redd. The Steelhead are aggressive after spending all Summer chasing baitfish in the lake and that aggression often carries over into the streams. Just like the warmwater fish, the Trout and Steelhead can become very spooky in the clear water. Swinging a small baitfish close to the bottom well downstream can be the best approach.  

With the popularity of smaller and lighter weight spey rods it is now easier to fish many different size waterways.  Tube flies are often associated with just swinging though. A small tube fly can be stripped as long as you balance the weight of the hook with the action you want out of the fly. No matter what method you like to fish, take a look at the versatility of adding tube flies to your fly box! 

Step 1: Cut a short piece of Ultra Tubing roughly a 3rd of a stick. Cut a wedge an the end of the tube (so that the junction tubing will fit on easily).

Step 2: Start your thread at the halfway mark on the tube.  Place a small amount of glue over the thread.

Step 3: Add a short piece of rabbit strip and lash down right on the thread wraps.

Step 4: Prep a schlappen feather by holding at the tip and folding/stroking down the fibers. Trim off the tip and tie in the feather at that point.

Step 5: Palmer the schlappen feather with tight side by side wraps.

Step 6: Add a small amount of glue or UV Resin to the base of the feather and slightly up on the fibers.  Using a bodkin is a great choice to control where the glue is applied.  This will help keep the fibers rigid and not lay down flat along the body.

Step 7: Form a dubbing loop and place the rabbit strip in the loop. With long scissors cut the fur off of the hide.  Using the Loon D-Loop tweezers helps to make this much easier. Hold open the dubbing loop with a dubbing spinner tool. I am using the Smhaen dubbing spinner here. Carefully place the rabbit fur in the loop and spin.  

Step 8: Palmer the dubbing loop forward tightly. Tie off and trim the loop. Paint the front base of the fur with UV resin. Before you cure the resin, make sure the fur is evenly perpendicular around the tube. This will help create a good collar around the tube.  

Step 9: Whip finish/half hitch if desired (the resin will glue the thread down)

Step 10: Slide a medium sized conehead of the desired color onto the tube. Trim the end of the tubing to just slightly past the cone.  

Step 11: Pull the fly off of the tapered needle and add a small section of Aqua Tubing to the back of the tube with the angled cut. The easiest way to do this is by twisting the tubing as you push it on the tube.  

Step 12: Using a lighter, heat up the end of the tube (by the cone) with the blue section of the flame. Spin it as you heat it carefully. This will create a mushroom shape in the tube to hold the cone onto the tube.  

Here I have chosen a fl. orange tube as a hotspot, but feel free to change colors of any of these materials to match your specific baitfish or crayfish. To rig up this fly simply slide your tippet through the tube and tie to a #4-6 Aqua Talon hook. Next tighten the tippet to pull the hook eye into the flexible junction tubing. You can fish this hook point up or down depending on your situation.

Recipe:

Vise: Regal Tube Fly Vise

Tube: Aqua Tube 1.8 mm color of your choice

Thread: Veevus 6/0 

Tail: Black Barred Rabbit Strips (Gold Variant)

Collar 1: Fish Hunter Select Schlappen (Galloup's Brown Olive)

Collar 2: Magnum Rabbit Strips Grizzly (Natural) Use fur in a dubbing loop

Head: Coneheads (color of your choice, sizes med or large)

Junction Tubing: Aqua Tubing

Hook: Aqua Talon #4-#6

Friday Flies: Ol' Mr. Wiggly by Pat Kelly

Popularized and developed in 2010 by Charlie Piette and the guys over at Tightlines Fly Fishing Co in Wisconsin, Ol' Mr. Wiggly was a much needed topwater fly that filled a void in the surface game when a traditional popper was simply overkill and too abrasive. At this point, the use of this pattern and its effectiveness in low clear water conditions for Smallmouth Bass fishing is no longer a secret. It is essential when trying to unlock the fickle and technical nature of the Smallmouth in the low clear water of Summertime. Long leaders and drag free drifts become the name of the game if you want to consistently fool big Smallmouth Bass.  

One of the reasons I think this fly is so productive in these difficult conditions is that it plays on the fishes instinctual nature to be a sampler. In late Summer, when the water is very low and clear you are dealing with very educated and spooky Bass. Often times even a dead drifted popper is overkill and one needs a fly that is unobtrusive with very subtle movements. When fishing this fly, treat it just like a dry fly. Long leaders, lighter tippet, and focusing on the right angle of approach coupled with drag free drifts with no more than an occasional twitch are critical to consistent success. When float fishing out of a boat it can be very effective to stand in an elevated position and sight fish, picking out ideal spots or individual fish.       

This style of fishing is not for everyone. It requires discipline and the willingness to fail. But for the angler who keeps faith in the process and the belief it will work one can reap the benefits of one of the most rewarding ways to fool a fish!

For more information on this technique as well as many others be sure to check out Smallmouth: Modern Fly Fishing Methods, Tactics and Techniques. 

Step 1: Before starting the foam body of the Wiggly it is important to lay a solid base of tying thread first. This will serve as a strong foundation for your foam body so that it does not shift, spin, or move around on you. If you tie a fly, tie it well so they are built to last. 

Step 2: Cut a strip of Loco Foam approximately 1/4"-3/8" in width and 3" in length. The length is less critical as it can be trimmed later (this is my preferred size for this particular  hook/pattern size, so adjust accordingly). Fold the foam in half so the material is doubled over with the split end tied off the rear of the hook. Like I stated earlier this end will be trimmed after the fact, so length is not critical. Most of the time I will trim the tail after the fly is finished and is subjective and based on what you like the look of. I generally shoot for about as long as the hook gap is wide. This is Merica' so do what you want. The folded end you want to hang over the eye of the hook approximately 2-3 eye widths.

There are many different varieties of sheet foam out there on the market, anything that is roughly 1.5-2mm in thickness will work just fine. I personally use Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam. I prefer this material because it comes in a variety of cool colors. One side is a little flashier and the other side is a more dulled out version of the given color. This is nice because depending on how I want my Wiggly to look, I can fold the foam one way or the other. Can I get a foam a little less expensive somewhere else, sure but I like supporting the fly tying industry and my friends who are the driving force behind it.  

Step 3: Make the first wrap close to in line with the barb of the hook. I'll make 3-4 wraps getting progressively tighter, securing the foam in place. Before proceeding to the next segment I will advance the thread forward, make a few wraps around the shank and then return my thread to the first body segment and make a few more securing wraps. This technique will help minimize the amount of spinning and foam rolling out of position. Use this technique on every body segment throughout the tying process.

Step 4: Continue up the hook shank creating a total of four body segments. 

Step 5: While the thread is hanging on the fourth body segment, select a small bundle of Senyo's Predator Wrap- UV Silver about 1.5" long and center tie it along each side of the body. This step just adds an element of buggyness that could be perceived as legs or part of the wings. Once tied in on each side, return the fly to it's upright position and trim them so they are about as long as the hook gap is wide. 

Step 5: Advance your thread forward, leaving about one eye width of room and tie down the foam. This step will create the last body segment. This will also be where we will tie in our rubber legs.

Step 6: Select three to four rubber legs and center tie them in place on either side of the body. Once tied in and secured, move thread forward to in front of the last segment but behind the eye. Build up a little thread bump to help prop up the over hanging foam. This will help the fly push a little water and make it easier to tie the fly on. Whip finish and tie off thread. Lay down a dollop of Z-Ment on the underside at each one of the body segments to help with fly durability.

Step 7: Before taking the fly out of the vice, get ahold of your rubber legs and pull them toward the back of the hook. If you trim the legs longer than the hook or body of the fly is they will tend to fowl and the pattern will spin. I try to trim them so they are extending to about the point or barb of the hook. I would rather err on the long side here as I can always cut and remove a little length if need be. 

Summer is flying by and will be gone before you know it, so get out there and fish a Wiggly or Popper and get it while the gettin is good!!   

To hear more on this fly and technique check out this video, where Tim Landwehr talks about "Ol' Mr. Wiggly"  

Recipe
Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140
MFC Wide Gap Streamer Straight Eye Hook #2
Chocklett's Loco Foam (Damsel Blue or color of choice)
Senyo's Predator Wrap (UV Silver or color of choice)
Chicone's Regular Crusher Legs (Black Barred Clear or color of choice)  

Friday Flies: Blane Chocklett's Mini Feather Jerk Changer Tied by Pat Kelly

The Jerk Changer is one of the many brainchild's of Blane Chocklett and just one of his many contributions to the fly tying and fly fishing industry. In 2009 I can remember meeting Blane Chocklett for the first time. I was invited to the International Fly Tying Symposium in Somerset, NJ. While taking a rare and much needed break to get up and stretch my legs I knew I did not have much time and I knew exactly what I wanted to do with the little time I had, go meet Blane! Up to this point in my life he was only someone I had heard/read about. Other than myself and a couple of friends, he was one of only a few people that were consistently catching Musky on a fly rod at the time. As a kid it took most of the courage I could muster up just to approach this legend of the tying/fishing industry. Fast forward thirty minutes later while walking back to my table and I could not believe what a nice, down to earth and humble person he was. Getting a chance to talk to him about fly design and musky flies back then was a game changer for me as I was just a couple years into my professional career as a fisherman and guide. Looking back and reflecting on that weekend in 2009 there were a couple things I never would have imagined (at the time). First and most importantly was the friendship I gained from that introduction. Blane is one of the most kind and genuine people I have ever met and I can call him a friend for life. I can not thank you enough for all your support and encouragement over the years. Secondly, was the positive impact and the amount of change he would have on our sport and all of the good he has done. 

The Jerk Changer, like most of his patterns, is a platform. It can be adapted, tweaked, and manipulated to be used in a variety of different watersheds for a variety of different species. For that reason, it is one of my all time favorite flies. Big or small, natural or synthetic, it doesn't matter which, just tie some and go fishing and I am confident you will enjoy this pattern as much as I do!

Step 1: Start by inserting a 10mm Next Gen Shank into the vise and lay down a foundation of thread from the eye all the way to the back. Cut a small bunch of UV Polar Chenille - Gold and tie in so it extends behind the shank. Try to keep this material as close to its full length as possible. This part of the fly serves two purposes. One is to add inner flash to the tail. Second is to provide some rigidity under our tail feathers, this will help keep the feathers flat but also keep them straight and prevent them from twisting during the tying and fishing process.

Step 2: Select two or three small and narrow hen feathers from the top of the saddle and tie them in on each side of the shank with the concave side of the feathers facing inward toward each other. 

Step 3: Select a piece of Chocklett's Finesse Chenille- Medium, strip away some of the fibers exposing the core, tie in and make two or three open spiral wraps and tie off, leaving approximately one eye width of room. 

Step 4: Select two more hen saddles similar in size to your tail feathers, tie in by the tip and palmer them forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a little Z-Ment for durability.

Step 5: Before removing this shank, attach the next 10mm shank. Once attached insert into the vise. Be sure to wrap your base of thread as far back up the shank as you can. This will help build a finished fly with minimal gaps and spacing between sections.

Step 6: Just as before tie in the Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap forward leaving just enough room to palmer two hen saddles. Keep in mind that the hen feathers you select for this next section are a little longer and a little wider. This will help build shape and size to the finished fly. Tie in feathers wrap forward to the eye and tie off. Finish with a dollop of Z-Ment.

Step 7: Insert Ahrex SA280 #6 hook into the vise and begin to tie down the articulation wire. Secure the wire to just down into the bend of the hook. Slide on the previous shank and tie down second strand of the wire. I take the wire and secure it up to the eye of the hook. There is no need to double back the wire for security as there will never be any amount of pressure hanging or pulling from it.

Step 8: Tie in your Finesse Chenille- Medium and wrap tight touching wraps all the way to just between the point of the hook and the barb and tie off. Select two more feathers, again slightly wider and larger. Tie in and palmer forward and tie off. At this point you should be about halfway up the hook shank. 

Step 9: Repeat the previous step one more time. Adding a second station of prop material and palmered hen saddles. If done properly this will take you all the way to the eye of the hook. Tie off and secure with Z-Ment.

Step 10: Attach the 35mm Shank to the hook and insert into the vise. As before you will want to start your thread at the eye of the shank and lay a good foundation all the way and as far back as is possible. Again, this will minimize the gaps in the finished product giving you a cleaner looking fly.

Step 11: Same as before you will attach the Finesse Chenille (this time using the Large Finesse Chenille) to the shank and wrap tight touching wraps approximately a quarter of the way up the shank. Once tied off you will want to give a slight trim to the Chenille so that it is not quite at full length. Palmer a couple more hen saddles, tie off, and secure with a dollop of Z-Ment. 

Step 12: Repeat the previous step. Only thing that will be done differently is you will want to leave the Finesse Chenille- Large at full length. At this point, this should be the second station of prop/veil on the front shank.

Step 13: This third and final station will vary a little as we are switching over to Chocklett's Filler Flash for the prop on this station. By switching over to the Filler Flash we are able to add a little more height and rigidity to our final prop. It also allows me to sneak in a little more flash than you can achieve with the Finesse Chenille or a brush. Once the prop has been tied in and secured you will want to veil it with 3 Hen Saddles that are quite a bit longer, wider, and webbier. This will help bring density to the front of the fly. Tie of and secure with Z-Ment.

Step 14: At this point you should be about 75% of the way up the shank. Next we will tie in pectoral fins. I often say this step is optional but as I look back and reflect on any baitfish changer I have ever tied, I always include pec fins (unless accidentally forgotten about haha). Traditionally pec fins are made of hackle/saddle tips and if you want to use that feel free, this is Merica' after all. I got a little bored with that and decided to use the tips of a Montana Fly Company barred mini marabou feather instead. 

Step 15: Once the pec fins are tied in, you will finish the fly off with any brush you see fit. I really like the Streamer Brush from Renzetti. Tie in and wrap in dense side by side wraps all the way to the front and tie off and secure with Z-Ment. Be sure to clean the brush head up with scissors to bring a little shape and old fashion good looks to the front of the fly. 

Whether floating in a boat or wading, using a sinking, intermediate, or floating line, this fly can be used and adapted to all sorts of different conditions and fisheries. It is a quick and easy tie, by Changer standards and very fun to watch come through the water! Tie a few up for your local water and let us know what you think. If you post a picture on social media be sure to tag us and we will share it on our page.

Recipe
Thread: 6/0 Veevus 
10mm Fish Skull Next Generation Shank
35mm Fish Skull Next Generation Shank
SA280 Minnow Hooks #6

SA Stainless Steel Wire

UV Polar Chenille: Gold
4B Hen Saddle
Finesse Body Chenille - Chocklett's - Medium (Gray)
Finesse Body Chenille - Chocklett's - Large (Gray)

Chocklett's Filler Flash: Gray

MFC Mini-Barred BuggerBou: Tan/Brown
Streamer Brush

Watch the full video here: