Popularized and developed in 2010 by Charlie Piette and the guys over at Tightlines Fly Fishing Co in Wisconsin, Ol' Mr. Wiggly was a much needed topwater fly that filled a void in the surface game when a traditional popper was simply overkill and too abrasive. At this point, the use of this pattern and its effectiveness in low clear water conditions for Smallmouth Bass fishing is no longer a secret. It is essential when trying to unlock the fickle and technical nature of the Smallmouth in the low clear water of Summertime. Long leaders and drag free drifts become the name of the game if you want to consistently fool big Smallmouth Bass.
One of the reasons I think this fly is so productive in these difficult conditions is that it plays on the fishes instinctual nature to be a sampler. In late Summer, when the water is very low and clear you are dealing with very educated and spooky Bass. Often times even a dead drifted popper is overkill and one needs a fly that is unobtrusive with very subtle movements. When fishing this fly, treat it just like a dry fly. Long leaders, lighter tippet, and focusing on the right angle of approach coupled with drag free drifts with no more than an occasional twitch are critical to consistent success. When float fishing out of a boat it can be very effective to stand in an elevated position and sight fish, picking out ideal spots or individual fish.
This style of fishing is not for everyone. It requires discipline and the willingness to fail. But for the angler who keeps faith in the process and the belief it will work one can reap the benefits of one of the most rewarding ways to fool a fish!
For more information on this technique as well as many others be sure to check out Smallmouth: Modern Fly Fishing Methods, Tactics and Techniques.
Step 1: Before starting the foam body of the Wiggly it is important to lay a solid base of tying thread first. This will serve as a strong foundation for your foam body so that it does not shift, spin, or move around on you. If you tie a fly, tie it well so they are built to last.
Step 2: Cut a strip of Loco Foam approximately 1/4"-3/8" in width and 3" in length. The length is less critical as it can be trimmed later (this is my preferred size for this particular hook/pattern size, so adjust accordingly). Fold the foam in half so the material is doubled over with the split end tied off the rear of the hook. Like I stated earlier this end will be trimmed after the fact, so length is not critical. Most of the time I will trim the tail after the fly is finished and is subjective and based on what you like the look of. I generally shoot for about as long as the hook gap is wide. This is Merica' so do what you want. The folded end you want to hang over the eye of the hook approximately 2-3 eye widths.
There are many different varieties of sheet foam out there on the market, anything that is roughly 1.5-2mm in thickness will work just fine. I personally use Blane Chocklett's Loco Foam. I prefer this material because it comes in a variety of cool colors. One side is a little flashier and the other side is a more dulled out version of the given color. This is nice because depending on how I want my Wiggly to look, I can fold the foam one way or the other. Can I get a foam a little less expensive somewhere else, sure but I like supporting the fly tying industry and my friends who are the driving force behind it.
Step 3: Make the first wrap close to in line with the barb of the hook. I'll make 3-4 wraps getting progressively tighter, securing the foam in place. Before proceeding to the next segment I will advance the thread forward, make a few wraps around the shank and then return my thread to the first body segment and make a few more securing wraps. This technique will help minimize the amount of spinning and foam rolling out of position. Use this technique on every body segment throughout the tying process.
Step 4: Continue up the hook shank creating a total of four body segments.
Step 5: While the thread is hanging on the fourth body segment, select a small bundle of Senyo's Predator Wrap- UV Silver about 1.5" long and center tie it along each side of the body. This step just adds an element of buggyness that could be perceived as legs or part of the wings. Once tied in on each side, return the fly to it's upright position and trim them so they are about as long as the hook gap is wide.
Step 5: Advance your thread forward, leaving about one eye width of room and tie down the foam. This step will create the last body segment. This will also be where we will tie in our rubber legs.
Step 6: Select three to four rubber legs and center tie them in place on either side of the body. Once tied in and secured, move thread forward to in front of the last segment but behind the eye. Build up a little thread bump to help prop up the over hanging foam. This will help the fly push a little water and make it easier to tie the fly on. Whip finish and tie off thread. Lay down a dollop of Z-Ment on the underside at each one of the body segments to help with fly durability.
Step 7: Before taking the fly out of the vice, get ahold of your rubber legs and pull them toward the back of the hook. If you trim the legs longer than the hook or body of the fly is they will tend to fowl and the pattern will spin. I try to trim them so they are extending to about the point or barb of the hook. I would rather err on the long side here as I can always cut and remove a little length if need be.
Summer is flying by and will be gone before you know it, so get out there and fish a Wiggly or Popper and get it while the gettin is good!!
To hear more on this fly and technique check out this video, where Tim Landwehr talks about "Ol' Mr. Wiggly"
Recipe
Thread: Veevus Power Thread 140
MFC Wide Gap Streamer Straight Eye Hook #2
Chocklett's Loco Foam (Damsel Blue or color of choice)
Senyo's Predator Wrap (UV Silver or color of choice)
Chicone's Regular Crusher Legs (Black Barred Clear or color of choice)
